There is a vast amount of information centred around how to wash, frequency of washing and what cleanser to use when washing curly hair. This blog post aims to take the difficult out of your decision making when it comes to your cleansing routine for your curls. You may have heard of the 3 C’s – Clarifying, Cleansing and Co washing, put simply these three concepts all fall under the umbrella of washing your curls.

How often should you wash your curls and what to use when washing your curls, may seem like million-dollar questions; however, the reality is really quite simple. Our aim is to make caring for your curls simple. Your curls should be washed as often as you deem necessary, subject to your lifestyle, climate and general haircare routine. Let us help you determine what frequency that looks like for your curls.

Curl cleansing basics

It’s important we touch upon this, as without a basic understanding all the expert tips we provide will not be intuitive to apply. As mentioned in previous blog posts, curly hair thrives in environments where hydration and moisture are present. In the context of washing your curls, frequent cleansing and conditioning helps improve the hair’s moisture absorption and retention capabilities, by promoting the binding of water to the hair shaft. As curly hair is more prone to dryness, environments that promote the retention of moisture can only be advantageous in maintaining healthy curls. This is what makes cleansing the first and most vital step in a healthy hair regimen. It’s the first point of proper hydration for your curls. This is contrary to popular belief! For many years, mass media advertising made it appear as though water dries out textured hair and it should be avoided too frequently, a completely false narrative behind the popularity of protective styling. In this day and age in 2024, if this narrative was still pushed, we would quite simply have an issue and possibly wouldn’t see the increase in individuals embracing their curly hair.

Remember: Squeaky clean hair isn’t always the goal, clean, hydrated and moisturised curls are.

Understanding the different cleansers available for curly hair

The curly hair market is loaded with various different cleansers which claim to do the same thing in slightly different ways and of course, it is of no surprise as the curly haircare market continues to grow. According to Allied Market Research, the shampoo market was valued at $3.4bn in 2023, and is forecasted to reach $58.3bn by 2034, registering a CAGR of 5.1% from 2023 to 2034.

Types of cleansers

Cleansers are formulated to lift hair cuticle and remove dirt, build up, dead skin and excess oil from the scalp and hair shaft. The hair cuticle is lifted through the slightly higher pH in the formulation when compared with a traditional conditioner.

Cleansers are typically made up of 40-60% of water. Though some brands of cleansers have a highly concentrated formulas which incorporate less than 40% water and require you to activate the cleanser by emulsifying the cleanser with water. The key types of cleansers for curly hair types include:

• Moisturising 
• Clarifying or Detoxing
• Chelating 

Moisturising Cleansers

Curly hair seeks out moisture at every turn, so we find that moisturising shampoos are heavily present in the market. However, a shampoo loaded with subpar oils is not an indication of its moisturising properties. Moisturising cleansers are designed to cleanse the hair but not strip the little natural moisture curly hair is able to retain. An example of a good moisturising shampoo is Innersense Hydrating Cream Hairbath, this brand has a range of highly concentrated products so a little goes a long way. This shampoo is a luxuriously hydrating and moisturising shampoo that leaves the hair and scalp clean but not dry, as it infuses the hair shaft with what it desires most - moisture. We want to further emphasise that not dry feeling, this is not to say your curls should feel coated. They should feel hydrated yet soft and supple.

Clarifying Cleansers

Clarifying or detoxing cleansers are also known as “stripping cleansers”, as they can often leave your curls feeling stripped of all moisture. Whilst the first point of call for cleansing curly hair types is a gentle moisturising shampoo, there is a need for a clarifying of detoxing cleanser on at least a monthly basis. A clarifying or detoxing cleanser is formulated to cleanse at a deep level and to a greater degree than your average cleanser by lifting heavy product build up and debris on the scalp and hair fiber. These types of cleansers provide your scalp and curls with a blank sheet - a clean slate. A clear indication your curls are in need of a clarifying cleanser is when you find your usual products are not performing as they used to, your curls seem limp and lack definition and movement, an increased amount of hair breakage despite no changes to your diet or lifestyle or simply just feel coated but yet not moisturised.

Chelating Cleansers

Similar to clarifying cleansers, clarifying cleansers have the ability to cleanse at a deeper level than a traditional moisturising cleanser. What sets this cleanser apart from others is its ability to bind to, cleanse and lift hard water residue, mineral build up of calcium and magnesium is a natural by product of hard water, commonly seen in the Middle East. If you live in a region with hard water we highly recommend you use a chelating shampoo at least monthly. Here is how to determine whether you live in an area with hard water. If you experience any of the below, there’s a good chance you have hard water.

• Excessive tangling after every wash despite efforts to ensure your curls are detangled before washing

• Your hair is chronically dry despite your efforts to wash and condition regularly.

• Your lathering shampoo takes a while to lather

• Excessive breakage that you cannot seem to address despite best efforts with healthy hair habits, treatments and overall haircare

• If you have colour treated hair, you may find your colour fades easily and turns brass and dull quite rapidly.

To wrap up today’s post we go back to the question many curlies ask when starting out on their healthy hair journey, how often should I wash my curls? Your curls should be washed on average every 7-10 days, however if your lifestyle demands frequent washes do not be afraid to do so. For example, if you work out more than 3-4 times a week or swim a few times a week, we recommend use of a low poo such as a conditioning wash – co wash alongside a regular moisturising shampoo – alternating between the two within a 7 day window can only be beneficial in removing light build up, maintaining a healthy scalp environment and imparting hydration and moisture back into your strands.